Home時尚專欄L`Oreal萊雅專業中壢安德魯髮藝Andy老師 TRIBU-TE雜誌國際中文版人物專訪

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中壢安德魯髮藝Andy老師 TRIBU-TE雜誌國際中文版人物專訪日期: 2015-8-11    類別: 人物專訪

入行超過25個年頭的安德魯划刀髮藝設計師Andy說他從來沒想過要轉行,一開始會進入這個行業是因為很喜歡弄自己的頭髮,在以前還有髮禁的年代,因為無法接受三分小平頭,所以連換了四所學校,就是希望頭髮可以一直美美的。從那個時候發現自己對頭髮有天生的喜好,也順理成章踏入美髮這個行業,只要能夠實現夢想,就算這條路再怎麼難走,也不會改變方向。


實現夢想不要怕痛
從助理開始做起,到設計師、紅牌、主管、老闆、業界講師,每個過程中都有許多風風雨雨,追求夢想的路上不會一直天氣晴朗。Andy說,「我一直相信持續地去創造美感,是一件很有成就感的事。我是一個夢想家,只要認定了這一途,就不會放棄,只會朝這個方向去努力,單純地剪頭髮、設計頭髮,一直不斷地去延伸,累積作品,堅持找出自己的美感,確信這個美感是我不會後悔的。

挑戰自己的高度
Andy覺得美感是天生的,每個人對美都有獨到眼光和品味,所以在創造美感的過程中,包含設計剪髮、攝影拍照、到後製修圖他都一手包辦,從中得到許多樂趣與成就感。」這就是為什麼Andy從事美髮工作這麼多年,還能保有源源不絕的熱情與靈感,因為不是只有死死的做一件事情,還是可以不斷地改變精進,讓唯美的東西越來唯美,創意的東西越來越有創意。


兩套設計髮型哲學創造顧客滿意度
Andy有兩套設計髮型哲學,第一套是先設定髮型,再設計髮色,先強化髮型的線條及立體感,並針對不同的曲線結構,置入點染、暈染、疊染、刷染等設計,創作出2D、3D甚至4D般立體色彩對比漸層效果,讓髮型的完成度更高。第二套則是先設定髮色,再思考髮型要怎麼剪,顛覆既定規則,讓創作空間更寬廣。Andy不做單一色調的染髮,就像彩妝不會只上粉底或口紅、睫毛膏而已,透過多層次的染髮,讓髮型整體設計充滿動感及視覺深度。

如何做出讓顧客滿意的髮型呢?Andy認為首先就是要了解顧客的自身條件,仔細觀察客人的頭型、髮質、毛流、臉型、膚色,甚至是身高、體型、服裝,這些元素都是需要被考慮,才能向顧客提出最適合他的提案設計。例如染髮時主要考慮如何修飾臉型、美化膚色,例如在下巴區染收縮色、臉頰區染膨脹色,透過改變髮色來截長補短,讓妳看起來有小V臉的效果;同時觀察顧客的膚色,決定他適合染什麼樣的色調,才能讓他的膚色更好看。如果顧客的皮膚已經有點蠟黃,就不適合染黃色調或是亞麻色調,會讓膚色顯得髒髒的;這時候選擇帶有矯色效果的染色,也許是帶一點紅色調的棕,可以讓皮膚看起來紅潤,甚至建議顧客染髮時做一些配色,不要單一色調較有立體感,做出讓顧客滿意的髮型,並提升留客率。

趨勢髮色隨季節交替更換
長期觀察時尚潮流趨勢的Andy認為,流行髮色與彩妝或服裝都與季節交迭息息相關。春暖花開、熱情奔放的季節,會走暖色調的橘棕色、紅棕色、紫棕色等,可增亮膚色;若時序轉到秋冬,充滿落葉迷濛、冷艷昏暗的氛圍,就很適合冷色調。最新的染髮趨勢也從之前強烈撞色的雙色染、色塊染,轉為漸進渲染式的多色暈染,有如光束、潑墨、斑塊般的光影,就像陽光乍現、灑落投射在髮絲上,瞬間展現出3D立體錯落的效果。

築夢踏實
對於新進的設計師,Andy收拾起輕鬆的口吻,正色說道,「要穩紮穩打,不要想一步登天,要多看、多問、多練習。要灌輸給年輕人一個觀
念,千萬不要認為什麼都是理所當然的,憑空得到什麼也應該的,必須先努力付出,才能得到收穫。」最後Andy也提到,「重要的是基本功要紮實,才能延伸你的創意。在沒有基本功的狀況下去玩創意,作品就會不實、空虛。只有基本功紮實了,才有準確度去玩創意,落實你的美感。


 

Andy from ANDREW SALON who has been in the hair industry for over 25 years, he claims that he never wants to switch to another business. He likes to do his hair so much that’s why he entered hair industry. In the year of hair banning, I didn’t like a flat top, so I changed 4 different schools just to keep a free hairstyle I preferred. Since then, I knew I’m a natural born stylist. No matter how tough it is, I won’t change my path.

No pain no gain
Starting from an assistance, stylist, top stylist, manager, owner, and educator, it was a bumpy road. There are always good days and some bad ones. Andy said, “I have faith in creating art. It made me felt complete. I’m a dreamer. As long as I set my goal, there is no turning back. From cutting, styling, and all the other techniques, I established my aesthetics. I believe I won’t regret being in it.

Up to any challenges
Andy thinks that creativity comes naturally. Everyone has unique eye and taste. He does styling, shooting, and even photo regenerating all by himself. He gets lots of fun and accomplishment during the process. That is why Andy has kept the passion and inspiration after so many years of hair styling job. You are not only doing styling, you are making styling better. Make beauty more beautiful, and make creativity more inspirational.

Two styling methods for satisfied customers
Andy has two sets of styling method. One is to set the hairstyle, then do the colors. By enforcing the lines and structure with different curves, colors are put in with spots, dyes, layers, and brushes. 2D, 3D, and even 4D colors will be shown as a very stereoscopic contrast. The second method is to set the colors then think about how to cut the styles. Overturning the rules makes your imagination go beyond the lines. Andy doesn’t do monotone color dye, just as makeup is not only about foundation, lips and mascara. Through multi layers of hair coloring, it will be more motional and in-depth.
How to make customers satisfied? Andy thinks you have to know how the hair style of your customer. Look closely to customers’ head shapes, hair types, hair flow, face shape, skin tone, and even heights, body shapes, and outfits. These are all the factors which need to be taking into considerations before your propose to your customers. For example, consider how to contour the face shape and beautifying the skin tone. You could color the chin area with deflating colors and cheeks with inflating colors. So you would get a V shaped face just by adjusting the hair colors. At the same time, you have to watch the skin tone of your customers to decide which color is good on him/her to make him look better. If his skin tone is yellow, Flaxen is not for him. It would be a dirty color. A red-ish brown would adds up a nice blush to the yellow skin. You should suggest the customer for other matching colors instead of monotone color. Make your customer satisfied, they will come back more often.

Colors change by seasons
Andy has kept an eye on the trends for a long time. He thinks the trend of hair  colors goes with makeup and fashion. In Spring, there will be lots of warm colors, such as orange brown, red brown, purple brown, etc. to enhance your skin tone. When it turns winter, there will be cold colors as it is relatively desolate. The latest color trend has shifted from strong impact two-tone and color blocks into progressive rendering colors like beam, ink, and shades of lights. It looks like the sun has shined on your hair and showing 3D effects.

Step by step
For the new comers, Andy said seriously, “ step by step is the only way. Don't even dream about fast success. Watch, ask, and practice. Young people should know nothing is for granted. You have to work hard to get fruitful efforts.” Andy mentioned, “ stick to the basics before you move on. Without basic techniques, you won’t have a solid and beautiful work. You will be more accurate on the style once you established a solid foundation.”

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西元1910年,萊雅集團創辦人史威拉先生在巴黎的羅浮大道開設了法國第一家染髮學校,並聘請了一位服務過俄國皇族的理髮師做為駐校導師,讓更多髮型師能夠體驗他所發明的產品。史威拉先生深切的體認到,髮型師的成功就是他的成功。這樣的理念在之後的一百年仍然被品牌奉為最高指導原則。
 
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